bgrg
11-05-2011, 14:02:43
לשימושכם:
Problems and Solutions Summarized
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
It's a start but so many things are being repeated thought it was worthwhile.
If someone knows how to paste an outline format I am all ears.
1. One Way Bearing
a. Known to spin the steel insert inside the hub. At the factory this is secured with green loctite.
b. Solution is to scuff the inside of the autorotation hub with fine sandpaper and the outside of the steel insert then apply Locktite #620 Sleeve Retainer.
c. Best Solution is to drill and tap a 3mm set screw in the autorotation hub that tightens up against the steel insert. Also dremel a groove into the steel insert so the set screw does not all it to rotate.
d. http://helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=277444
2. Vertical Play in Main Gear
a. Caused by the bearing in the top of the autorotation hub getting pushed down in the assembly.
b. Solution is to apply heat, remove it and secure with Locktite #620 Sleeve Retainer.
c. (Note) The green locktite in the kit is Thread Retaining compound and not suitable.)
d. http://helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=230926&highlight=vertical+play
3. Main Gear Stripping
a. This is especially prevalent with the original stock gear, Align revised the gear with a CNC Gear (AGNHN7019B) in the newer kits that seems to hold up well.
b. Solutions
i. Align 115T CNC Gear – Should be good for the Align Motors(470, 510, 530kv)
ii. Align Slant Gear(H70021) and Pinion – Good results reported with high power setups, Scorp 4525 Ltd, KDE 1917. Be aware that this gear puts axial loads on the autorotation hub and motor. Debate exists around resting the pinion on the counter bearing block to remove this force from the motor.
http://helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=236694&highlight=gear+mesh
iii. MD600 110T Herringbone Gear – Still too new to tell, but good results so far. Since this gear rides 1mm from the frames necessary to dremel the frames for clearance. Available from http://www.topshop.com.tw/md-rc-en/p...1-74F015BA80DE
iv. http://helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=277444
4. Mesh
a. KDE Adjustable Motor Mount is pretty much a requirement for adding another motor or gear. A worthwhile investment as setting mesh is important.
b. Setting Proper Mesh and ensure counter bearing is lined up.
i. Put motor and mount in first
ii. Set Mesh using paper method, counter bearing screws loose.
iii.. Tighten motor mount bolts
iv.. With pinion support loose, spool it up to center counter bearing.
v.. Tighten Counter bearing bolts
vi. Adjust pinion height. I adjust leaving paper thin space between counterbearing and pinion to allow for heat expansion.
vii. Added note: Remember if there is play between the screws that tghten the motor to the mount you can have the motor shaft off center side to side(between frames,). Solution is to leave these bolts loose, pinion off, counterbearing in, then tighten the screws and will ensure horizontal alignment of motor.
5. Tail Kicks
a. Can be many things but there are a few areas to look at on the 700E.
i. Governor gain – Too many variables but high gain causes kicks.
ii. In high power moves the stock 105mm blades do not have enough authority, best results are with Rotortech 115mm or 120mm. In this setup a longer tail fin from Custom Heli Parts keeps the longer blades protected. Also using the f3C gear on the front lowers the nose and raises the tail keeping it out of harms way.
6. Tail Rotor Failure
a. The Metal Tail rotor is known to fail and the spindle bolts break off.
b. Solutions
i. The KDE Tail Upgrade, be careful as the KDE link arms can cause binding so you might need ot sand the edges to get it smooth.
ii. Quick UK Tail Upgrade is a nice addition and is proven reliable.
iii. The 600N Plastic Tail grips can also be used, while this seems like a downgrade the tail is smoother that either of the two above options.
iv. http://helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=234744&highlight=tail+failure
v. Upgrade the tail spindle bolts to 12.9 steel. Mcmaster Carr. Not needed with KDE or Quick UK as already 12.9 Steel
7. Head
a. At a minimum you need to remove the grips to grease the thrust bearings. Apply heat to the head to loosen the locktite otherwise very difficult to remove.
i. Can upgrade the spindle bolts to Lynx and they are nice, but not sure if really needed.
8. Balance
a. Heli tends to be tail heavy, so when planning the location of the electronics try and get as much weight in the front as possible. This keeps you form having to move the lipo’s forward and getting a 3rd party solution that allows the lipo frame rails to be extended forward.
1. KDE Front Mount allows battery tray to slide forward. Some issue with the new frame design rails getting in the way.
http://helifreak.com/showthread.php?...r+mount+frames
2. GForce Rail Extender
9. Canopy Mounting
a. Stock system uses C Clips to hold in place. The front mounts do not really need secured it is the back ones that are important to secure.
i. Quick UK has some nice magnetic ones that do not require modification of the stock canopy.
ii.http://helifreak.com/showthread.phpt=268560&highlight=battery
10. Battery/ESC Mounting
a. Basically there are a ton of options so just going to point out some things to watch
i. No more than 12” wire from ESC to Battery total.
ii. Having ESC in back can be necessary because of heat or it just won’t fit up front. unless you go with a Jive.
iii. Lipo Trays
1. Can use Strapping Tape to secure the two lipos together, velcro under the lipo and straps to hold the lipos to the stock tray. The align Straps break, JR or scorpion straps are more robust.
2. http://helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=215579&highlight=battery
11. 3rd Bearing Block Modification
a. This is purely optional but benefit is less frame flex which contributes to main gear stripping and an overall smoother heli.. Addition of 3rd block underneath the main gear.
b. http://helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=276221&highlight=gear+mesh
12. Frames
a. When you do crash the frames tend to break by the elevator servo. There is also a fair amount of flex.
b. Dan at Custom Heli Parts has frames for the same cost as the align frames but they are better for two reasons. One the Carbon is a much higher quality; second the Elevator Servo has been moved to the rear thus strengthening the weak point. Added bonus is his LiPo trays are a nice upgrade.
c. http://helifreak.com/showthread.phpt=277396&highlight=CHP+Frames
13. Wiring
a. There are many ways to power the bird and not going to get into all that.
http://helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=237931
http://helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=223365&highlight=wiring
14. Lipo Sizing
a.The capacity and C Rating of Lipo's in this bird comes down to flight style and personal preference. The range can be from 3500mah vs 5000.
http://helifreak.com/showthread.php?...highlight=3000
גרג
Problems and Solutions Summarized
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
It's a start but so many things are being repeated thought it was worthwhile.
If someone knows how to paste an outline format I am all ears.
1. One Way Bearing
a. Known to spin the steel insert inside the hub. At the factory this is secured with green loctite.
b. Solution is to scuff the inside of the autorotation hub with fine sandpaper and the outside of the steel insert then apply Locktite #620 Sleeve Retainer.
c. Best Solution is to drill and tap a 3mm set screw in the autorotation hub that tightens up against the steel insert. Also dremel a groove into the steel insert so the set screw does not all it to rotate.
d. http://helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=277444
2. Vertical Play in Main Gear
a. Caused by the bearing in the top of the autorotation hub getting pushed down in the assembly.
b. Solution is to apply heat, remove it and secure with Locktite #620 Sleeve Retainer.
c. (Note) The green locktite in the kit is Thread Retaining compound and not suitable.)
d. http://helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=230926&highlight=vertical+play
3. Main Gear Stripping
a. This is especially prevalent with the original stock gear, Align revised the gear with a CNC Gear (AGNHN7019B) in the newer kits that seems to hold up well.
b. Solutions
i. Align 115T CNC Gear – Should be good for the Align Motors(470, 510, 530kv)
ii. Align Slant Gear(H70021) and Pinion – Good results reported with high power setups, Scorp 4525 Ltd, KDE 1917. Be aware that this gear puts axial loads on the autorotation hub and motor. Debate exists around resting the pinion on the counter bearing block to remove this force from the motor.
http://helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=236694&highlight=gear+mesh
iii. MD600 110T Herringbone Gear – Still too new to tell, but good results so far. Since this gear rides 1mm from the frames necessary to dremel the frames for clearance. Available from http://www.topshop.com.tw/md-rc-en/p...1-74F015BA80DE
iv. http://helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=277444
4. Mesh
a. KDE Adjustable Motor Mount is pretty much a requirement for adding another motor or gear. A worthwhile investment as setting mesh is important.
b. Setting Proper Mesh and ensure counter bearing is lined up.
i. Put motor and mount in first
ii. Set Mesh using paper method, counter bearing screws loose.
iii.. Tighten motor mount bolts
iv.. With pinion support loose, spool it up to center counter bearing.
v.. Tighten Counter bearing bolts
vi. Adjust pinion height. I adjust leaving paper thin space between counterbearing and pinion to allow for heat expansion.
vii. Added note: Remember if there is play between the screws that tghten the motor to the mount you can have the motor shaft off center side to side(between frames,). Solution is to leave these bolts loose, pinion off, counterbearing in, then tighten the screws and will ensure horizontal alignment of motor.
5. Tail Kicks
a. Can be many things but there are a few areas to look at on the 700E.
i. Governor gain – Too many variables but high gain causes kicks.
ii. In high power moves the stock 105mm blades do not have enough authority, best results are with Rotortech 115mm or 120mm. In this setup a longer tail fin from Custom Heli Parts keeps the longer blades protected. Also using the f3C gear on the front lowers the nose and raises the tail keeping it out of harms way.
6. Tail Rotor Failure
a. The Metal Tail rotor is known to fail and the spindle bolts break off.
b. Solutions
i. The KDE Tail Upgrade, be careful as the KDE link arms can cause binding so you might need ot sand the edges to get it smooth.
ii. Quick UK Tail Upgrade is a nice addition and is proven reliable.
iii. The 600N Plastic Tail grips can also be used, while this seems like a downgrade the tail is smoother that either of the two above options.
iv. http://helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=234744&highlight=tail+failure
v. Upgrade the tail spindle bolts to 12.9 steel. Mcmaster Carr. Not needed with KDE or Quick UK as already 12.9 Steel
7. Head
a. At a minimum you need to remove the grips to grease the thrust bearings. Apply heat to the head to loosen the locktite otherwise very difficult to remove.
i. Can upgrade the spindle bolts to Lynx and they are nice, but not sure if really needed.
8. Balance
a. Heli tends to be tail heavy, so when planning the location of the electronics try and get as much weight in the front as possible. This keeps you form having to move the lipo’s forward and getting a 3rd party solution that allows the lipo frame rails to be extended forward.
1. KDE Front Mount allows battery tray to slide forward. Some issue with the new frame design rails getting in the way.
http://helifreak.com/showthread.php?...r+mount+frames
2. GForce Rail Extender
9. Canopy Mounting
a. Stock system uses C Clips to hold in place. The front mounts do not really need secured it is the back ones that are important to secure.
i. Quick UK has some nice magnetic ones that do not require modification of the stock canopy.
ii.http://helifreak.com/showthread.phpt=268560&highlight=battery
10. Battery/ESC Mounting
a. Basically there are a ton of options so just going to point out some things to watch
i. No more than 12” wire from ESC to Battery total.
ii. Having ESC in back can be necessary because of heat or it just won’t fit up front. unless you go with a Jive.
iii. Lipo Trays
1. Can use Strapping Tape to secure the two lipos together, velcro under the lipo and straps to hold the lipos to the stock tray. The align Straps break, JR or scorpion straps are more robust.
2. http://helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=215579&highlight=battery
11. 3rd Bearing Block Modification
a. This is purely optional but benefit is less frame flex which contributes to main gear stripping and an overall smoother heli.. Addition of 3rd block underneath the main gear.
b. http://helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=276221&highlight=gear+mesh
12. Frames
a. When you do crash the frames tend to break by the elevator servo. There is also a fair amount of flex.
b. Dan at Custom Heli Parts has frames for the same cost as the align frames but they are better for two reasons. One the Carbon is a much higher quality; second the Elevator Servo has been moved to the rear thus strengthening the weak point. Added bonus is his LiPo trays are a nice upgrade.
c. http://helifreak.com/showthread.phpt=277396&highlight=CHP+Frames
13. Wiring
a. There are many ways to power the bird and not going to get into all that.
http://helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=237931
http://helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=223365&highlight=wiring
14. Lipo Sizing
a.The capacity and C Rating of Lipo's in this bird comes down to flight style and personal preference. The range can be from 3500mah vs 5000.
http://helifreak.com/showthread.php?...highlight=3000
גרג